Lifelight

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

After the past two super easy days, during which I focused mainly on sightseeing in the historic old cities of Guimarães and Amarante, it was now time, on this 10th day of my Portugal’s Northern Coastline and Peneda-Geres cycling tour, once again, to spend a long day in the saddle, as I began my homeward leg.


This day’s ride of 115km would first see Matilda and I head back west to reconnect with Porto. From there, we’d continue southward down the coastline to our day’s destination of Torreira, where we had already stayed on the way up. As we could have easily just retraced the same route from Porto back to our starting point in Peniche, the additional challenge now was to try and find some new roads and pathways to explore, even if we’d be riding through, and overnighting in, the same areas.

As Amarante is nestled at the bottom of a river valley, our pre-dawn departure started with a rather solid climb, which would account for a huge chunk of the 1275mof  total vertical climb that we would do over the course of the morning; but what a reward we earned when we reached the first saddle, an absolutely glorious sunrise that instantly cured my heavy breathing and heavy legs. Matilda and I had found, once again, our happy place, and so we would remain for the remainder of the day, only being briefly interrupted by a couple of snack and beer breaks in the afternoon. It was definitely go-time!


When we reached Porto, this time I decided to cross back over the D’Ouro River via the Ponte Infante Dom Henrique, instead of the more famous and touristic Luis I Bridge, which we had used on the outbound leg. It also saved a lot of time not having to fight the traffic congestion in that area. Once we’d cut diagonally down to reach the coastal bicycle route in Espinho, it was smooth rolling all the way to Torreira.

The rays of life shine,
from the other side of hell.
Wonder awakens.

*Lifelight’ by Jyri Manninen

After having set up camp at the now familiar Torreira Camping, I took a late evening stroll to Praia da Torreira, located on the ocean side of the isthmus; and if the spectacular sunrise over Amarante in the morning wasn’t enough, the deep calm and serenity of the extended sunset over the Atlantic’s horizon would crown what had manifested into one of the best bicycle touring day’s that I’d ever experienced. It was as if, over the course of the entire day, the sun’s light had, by first bridging the empty coldness of space in between us, brought my body, mind and spirit back to full charge.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Toll of the Bells

Jyri Manninen | Kajura

As I departed Guimarães on this 9th day of my Portugal’s North Coast and Peneda-Geres bicycle tour, I only had a very short day of riding ahead of me, just a 36km roll to my next main destination, the picturesque old town of Amarante located on the Tâmega river, which is the longest tributary of the Douro river. I decided to follow the historic Rota do Românico route, which would have me meander through some utterly stunning countryside, and which would include a nice amount of climbing as well.

Amarante’s origins date back to the primitive peoples that hunted and gathered in the Serra da Aboboreira, sometime during the Stone Age. Although the city was founded in 360BC, it wasn’t until Gonçalo, a Dominican friar, who was born in Guimarães, settled in the area in the early 13th century following his pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem, that the city really started to develop, including the construction of its now famous stone bridge.

The bells, they do toll.
The price to be paid, they mark.
Angels keeping score.

‘Toll of the Bells’ by Jyri Manninen

I arrived in Amarante already around lunchtime, and I was fortunate enough to be granted an early check-in to my accommodation at the Des Arts Guesthouse, a charming building with more than 100 years of life. Its decor and suites are a tribute, in addition to the area’s history, to the artists who are part of Amarante’s memory. So, with plenty of time on my hands, it was time to check out the old town and the famous stone bridge; and just by the bridge, I ended up coming across a celebrating wedding party exiting the Igreja e Mosteiro de São Gonçalo to the loud chimes of the church’s bells. From there, I took an easy stroll to soak in the peaceful atmosphere of this historic location by following a loop that would take me along both banks of the Tâmega.


Getting the chance to visit Amarante was an absolute treat, and it was also a great way to spend my last easy day before the commencement of the return leg to Peniche, which would include several long days in the saddle. However, I knew that, one day, I would come back to visit this region, but most likely on foot, and with much more time to explore and discover its beauty.

Be blessed,
Jyri

Santuário

Jyri Manninen | Kajura


After having arrived in Guimarães in the early afternoon, the manager at my hostel suggested that I also go and visit Penha Mountain, in addition to sightseeing around the city, and what a great recommendation that ended up being, as the place was absolutely amazing!

Monte da Penha is the highest point in the urban area of Guimarães, and the easiest and most scenic access to reach the summit, which is at an altitude of 586 metres, is to take the teleférico, or cable car, from the south-east edge of the city. Thanks to its natural characteristics, Penha Mountain is one of the major tourist attractions in Guimarães. It is famous for its unique natural landscapes, which are punctuated by rich flora, caves and several granite outcrops, which provided shelters for acts of celebration during the Chalcolithic and Bronze Ages. The abundant archaeological remains collected in these natural cavities are made up of ceramic fragments, as well as various types of lithic and metallic objects, which can now be viewed at the Museu da Sociedade Martins Sarmento in the city. 

One of the most important sites on the mountain is the Penha Sanctuary or Santuário da Penha. This sanctuary is a very important pilgrimage centre, which is visited by scores of pilgrims and tourists alike, especially during the summer months.

The storms of life rage.
Chaotic, manic motion.
Yet thine eye be calm.

‘Santuário’ by Jyri Manninen


I’ll conclude by saying that Penha is just an amazing place to relax and re-energise by going for casual, mindful nature walks, or just simply sitting in silence. Being graced with the majestic views from the Miradouro Penha, which can even extend as far as the Atlantic ocean, certainly adds to the beauty and depth of the experience.

Bênçãos e graça para você.
Jyri